Fix Your Buckner or Superior Valve — find the exact part in minutes
Don’t worry about part numbers. Match your valve by photo, tell us what it’s doing, and we’ll point you to the right repair kit, diaphragm or solenoid — in stock and ready to ship.
Superior 950 brass in-line
Step 1 · Identify
Which valve do you have?
Pull the box lid and compare your valve to the photos below. Click the closest match to jump straight to the right parts — no model number needed.
Superior 950 (Brass)
Brass body, rounded dome on top. The most common pro valve since the 1960s.
Shop 950 parts →
Buckner VB (Brass)
Heavy brass with “BUCKNER” or “VB” cast on the side. Reverse-flow design.
Shop VB parts →
Electric Adaptor Top
A screw-on top with a solenoid that sits on an older manual anti-siphon valve.
Shop adaptors →
Plastic In-Line (SPV/450)
Black/green plastic body. Commercial valve that shares 950 internals.
Shop plastic-valve parts →
Master Valve (3000s)
Larger valve installed at the meter/mainline to protect the whole system.
Shop master-valve parts →
Just the Solenoid
The black cylinder with two wires. The #1 electrical failure on any valve.
Shop solenoids →
Just a Diaphragm
The rubber part inside that opens/closes the valve. Most common wear part.
See diaphragm guide →Not sure? We’ll ID it free
Snap 3 photos — brand stamp, top, and inlet — and we’ll tell you the exact part.
Get free help →Step 2 · Diagnose
What’s your valve doing?
Most valve problems come down to two cheap parts: the diaphragm or the solenoid. Find your symptom to see which one to grab.
💧 Won’t shut off / a zone runs constantly
Usually a worn or debris-clogged diaphragm letting water bypass the seat.
🚫 Won’t turn on / no water to the zone
Test the solenoid first. If it’s good, the metering port or diaphragm is clogged/torn.
🔧 Leaking from the top / bonnet
Worn o-rings or a tired diaphragm at the bonnet-to-body joint.
⚡ Solenoid clicks but nothing happens
The metering orifice in the diaphragm has enlarged over time.
🔌 Totally dead — no click at all
The solenoid coil has failed or the wiring is bad.
🛠️ Want to automate a manual valve?
Add an electric adaptor top to an existing brass anti-siphon valve.
Step 3 · Shop your size
Pick your valve, then pick your size
Each section below has the parts that fit that valve. Just click your pipe size and you’ll land on the right product, ready to add to cart.
Superior 950 Series
The world’s most common brass electric valve. Parts have stayed backward-compatible for 60 years, so today’s kits fit decades-old valves. Fits the 950, 950DW, 950PRS and master valves.
Buckner VB Series
Heavy-duty brass valve with a reverse-flow design — if the diaphragm tears, it fails closed. So on a VB, “won’t open” almost always means a torn diaphragm.
Older “182-845″ castings are 2″-class — use the 2” kit. Need bonnet kits or the VB solenoid? Ask us and we’ll source it.
Electric Valve Adaptors (800 / 600 / 2000)
Turn an existing manual anti-siphon valve into an automatic one — no digging. The brass 800 and plastic 600 fit Superior, Champion, Orbit, Lawnlife, Aqualine and Hydro-Rain bodies.
Plastic Valves (SPV / 450)
Commercial plastic valves that share internals and solenoids with the brass 950 — so the same repair kits and solenoids fit. Great budget-friendly performance.
Master Valves (3000 / 3100 / 3200 / 3300)
Installed at the meter to protect the whole system. They share diaphragm geometry with the 950, so the same repair kits cross-apply by size.
Solenoids
One solenoid fits almost everything — SPV, 450, 600, 800, 950 and 950A. Test the solenoid before replacing the diaphragm: if the plunger doesn’t lift when energized, the solenoid is the problem.
Good to know
The parts of an electric valve
Every Buckner and Superior electric valve is built the same way. Knowing the parts makes ordering — and fixing — easy.
- 1 · Solenoid
The electrical valve. No click = replace it. One solenoid fits most models. - 2 · Bonnet
The brass dome that bolts to the body and holds everything in place. - 3 · Spring
Returns the diaphragm to the closed position. Comes in the repair kit. - 4 · Diaphragm (the #1 repair)
The rubber membrane that opens and closes the valve. Most leaks and “won’t shut off” faults are a worn diaphragm. - 5 · Body, seat & ports
The brass shell with inlet and outlet. Rarely fails — just clean it during a rebuild.
Still not sure what you need?
Text us 3 photos of your valve — the brand stamp, the top, and the inlet — and our team will identify it and send you the exact part link. Usually within one business day.
📷 Text us a photo for free ID Browse all Superior / Buckner partsQuestions
Buckner & Superior valve FAQ
How do I know which repair part I need?
Are Buckner and Superior the same?
Can I use a Superior kit on a Buckner valve?
The new diaphragm looks flat — is it the wrong one?
Do you have parts for valves from the 1960s–70s?
How long should a diaphragm last?
Buckner® and Superior® are registered trademarks of Storm Manufacturing Group. This guide is a reference — when in doubt, send a photo and we’ll confirm the right part before you order.